Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Josh and saturdays killing it



my good friend josh's shop http://blog.saturdaysnyc.com/ has been doing very well lately with colaborations with Jcrew and now warriors of radness.
way to get it done guys.

Sunday, July 25, 2010

baby sienna

Mens Style 101: L.L. Bean F/W 2010 Preview

Mens Style 101: L.L. Bean F/W 2010 Preview: "Earlier today, Lawrence over at Sartorially Inc. (my favorite blog) posted some great new pics from the upcoming F/W L.L. Bean Signature col..."

i love summer, but i cant wait to put more clothes on.

Bhops and the rest of Team Oldguy.com (o-town, Erin gurley and Emma peel)

my new GTI


so the truck gets horrible gas mileage and the Bus isnt exactly the most efficient vehicle to daily drive. so i got this. 2001 VW GTI 1.8t. its nice to be in it. much better.

Linus

FSA grand prix at marymore

have made it out to this event the past few years. these guys are amazing.

Friday, July 23, 2010

summer slam 2010


finally, new gri gri


now that we are all climbing with smaller ropes it only makes sense the the industry leader PETZL, would come out with a grigri that is more compatible to smaller diameters. super psyched for this.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

a little mixup and an apology


i have been informed that a post i made a couple weeks ago from the SCS national in atlanta made some people upset. the post was regarding technicals in the speed climbing event and below the post i had posted some videos of some climbers.
the mix up was that it sounded as though i was posting video of kids who i was calling cheaters. this for sure was not the case. i was posting videos of kids who were really fast and showed what speed climbing at that level can be like. i was very psyched to see kids training super hard to get fast times at this event. i especially wanted to point out how dedicated the kids on kim puccios team are to the speed climbing. they were consistently getting some of the fastest times and the entire team was super supportive of each other while the speed event was going on. other than a few teams over the years, speed climbing has always gotten less attention than other aspects of our sport. i loved seeing what it has become and how psyched the teams are getting.
my choice of words in relation to the videos was not correct. i apologize to anyone who thought that i was calling their kids cheaters. i would never blame technical calls on the climbers or call them cheaters.
i am sorry for the mix up and am glad that it has been brought to my attention. i will try to choose my words more carefully as to not put people in this situation again.
please, if you have issues with any of my posts, email me or get ahold of me somehow so that i can fix them or at least explain myself. oldguy.com is not a place where i bash people. i would never do this on the internet. if i have a problem with you, i will speak with you directly. just as i did in that situation. that post was geared toward one specific coach, who is a good friend of mine. we worked it out and we both see things clearly now. that post had nothing to do with anyone else. i have edited the post as to not read like it did.
sorry to all involved.

the stance on this is better than many

Wheelandtorque.com presents Aaron Ok's 2003 Volkswagen Jetta Wolfsburg 1.8T from Jared Auslander on Vimeo.

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Rain warriors

Dr. Evil Climb - Bret Johnston from Justin Amorratanasuchad on Vimeo.


im excited to see more stuff from this summer. great video, let alone a great video from a guy who literally learned how to work a rope a few weeks before this was shot. nice work justin.

Saturday, July 17, 2010

Sienna Story Schoene, born july 17, 2010



she is beautiful

Peter and Laura night before baby footage

my brother and his wife had their baby this morning. i missed it. i am heartbroken about this. when i was in bozeman my Tmobile coverage was non existent. i couldnt get data, my calls were dropping and many of them were not coming through. Peter texted me this morning to tell me the baby was coming. i didnt get it. as i was getting in the car to drive to seattle, i tried calling peter to either stop over or just say goodbye and good luck having the baby in a few days. well, as i was calling, the baby was coming out. i did not find this out until i was in spokane were i was getting coverage again. needless to say, i am now signed up with verizon and my phone is coming on monday.
they named their baby Sienna Story Schoene. she is wonderful im sure. they did a natural birth at home with no drugs and one midwife. everyone is healthy and happy. crazy.
here is some footage from last night, before the baby.

Friday, July 16, 2010

Kid Griffey

more montana








my dad moved to bozeman a couple years ago. this is the first time i have come out here. it is amazing. he is building a house out here on the hill, and it is livable right now, so it was a perfect opportunity for me to come. i really miss seeing him. my brother and his wife live here to. she is about to have a baby any day now.
it is really nice here. very small town and peaceful. i could live here. the hills and the mts are all over. it is 98 degrees right now, but very bare able. dad has a great dog named lulu. she is a Rhodesian ridgeback. very stout animal and very sweet. she love the mts and runs around on the property.
my littlest sister kira is getting older and bigger. she is very sweet too. her and i walked around down main street and went to the gun shop. then we got some ice cream. here are some shots and a video.

montana

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

the best vegan cheese ever!!!!!


Daiya is the best vegan cheese for all you non vegans. you must try this stuff. it melts and tastes wonderful. they use it at Turnpike pizza on all their vegan pizzas.

stone summit shots


Olive, Sounders for life!



here is Olive hoping the trade rumors of Ljunberg for Juan Pablo are true. the look of contemplation of a powerful midfield is apparent on her face. bring Juan Pablo!!!!

something special

Bushcamp Company Did You Know 14 July 2010 from The Bushcamp Company on Vimeo.

Monday, July 12, 2010

why rudy has high blood pressure and some thoughts


ive known rudy since i was 12 year old. he was about 19 or 20 and living in his van down at smith rocks. he was always one of the most supportive guys at the crag and really took me on some adventures down there. he has always been the first one to offer up his knowledge of rock climbing to younger guns and has always been there for those in need. christine ruana, rudy's wife, used to take me to the gym when i was younger. she lived by my mom and i would walk over to her apartment and she would drive me down there. back in the day she was a hard 5.12 climber in her own right. she always had the best technique on the wall. i see where drew gets his precision.
i now have the opportunity to work with their kids. all three of them couldnt be more different. drew looks at things more closely than most. he is super meticulous about his training and approach to climbing. jon-o is the total opposite, he is more of the put your head down and go until it hits something, back up, go again, hit something, go again, and go again until he is unconscious. but sooner or later, he will send, and more powerfully than most. sarah (3 yrs) can already traverse the gym on the foot holds. she loves the climbing and hanging out with her brothers. she pretty much is spoiled rotten and will get whoever and whatever she wants in years to come. i cannot wait until she is ready for team.
someone a little while ago told me that people were saying that i was playing favorites with drew on team. i was pretty upset. it really hurt me. rudy and his family have been key parts in my life for 20 years, and i treat them as family. he and his future wife looked out for me when i was younger. down at smith without my family and here in the city. i feel very close to them and always will. say what you want, but stop saying it behind my back. before you insult my integrity, find out the story.

Saturday, July 10, 2010

day 3 nationals

today went well for us, with only a couple heart breaks.
lil sid is national speed champion for youth D female.
sean bailey got 5th in male B for speed.
drew ruana got 3rd in speed for youth D boys.
speed was run much better today.
our climbers in semis did pretty well. drew, gavin, alex, audrey, kale and lil sid and melina made it to finals. all of them placing in the top 6 today.

one more day. this has been a long one. adam is holding up well. we are making a really good team for these events.

Friday, July 9, 2010

more stone summit, scs nationals 2010



SCS nationals day 2.

today went alright for us. had a few kids not make the semi, but overall it was a good result.





Thursday, July 8, 2010

SCS nationals atlanta GA 2010

i can honestly say that this is the best gym i have been to. there is no comparison. they have done most things right here. this footage does not do it justice.
after flying in yesterday, adam and I got picked up by my good friend and US team head coach claudiu vidulescu and headed to his house to watch the world cup semi. viva espana. we then headed to the host hotel for registration and the meetings.



Sounders vs. P*rtscum highlights from me


Thursday, July 1, 2010

team youth Ds

Sounders vs. P*rtscum highlights

i love this rivalry. i drove down yesterday afternoon. met mike at his house and rode bikes through portland to meet his wife, make a stop by voodoo donuts and then to the game. sounders win. overtime, Pks, and the win. so much fun.