CLASSIC

if you know who this is and what he was to climbing, you have been around as long as i have.

this seems like forever ago

WE HAVE A LOT OF WORK TO DO

motivation

we woke up yesterday morning to 35degrees and snow rain in redmond oregon. it was very disappointing as we both had things we wanted to do at the park. but of course i had my computer and was able to check the weather back home. sunny and in the 60s. so bhops and I hoped in richs cobalt (which i was driving so that we didnt have to charge mileage to the company, how anyone gets talked into buying a rental car, i have no idea. this car had the slickest tires and the worst wipers ever. but it did the job) and we drove north. it was snowing over mt hood but was not bad. it took us 5.5 hours and we were in the parking lot at little si. we basically ran up the trail. i was psyched to get a session in. we didnt think we would. it is nice to be this motivated. the cliff was packed but stuff was open. i felt strong and stuff felt easy. i went up hardliner (13a), which is a link of the crux of propaganda, then a few moves that i didnt know, into the crux of psychosomatic. i was pumped and started screaming, but was able to hold on for the flash. that felt good. bhops fessed on pornstar again. it is mental for him now. i think he needs to try something else for a bit.
i enjoy being this motivated. to drive that far to climb at our local crag, psyches me. maybe driving back down to smith next weekend. that place is fun again.

inclimb comp october 3rd

here is some footage from the inclimb comp today. really fun comp with fun gym and great people.

tacoma progress pics

oh man this place is looking good.

it all comes full circle

the hub motel in redmond oregon. this place rules. it always has. if you tell her your a climber she only charges you $48 for the double room, two rooms, two beds. they got microwaves, fridge, free wifi, cable. i love it. it is so much nicer for me to come back from craggin and have all the amenities of home. man im gettin old, but im just not into camping that much anymore.
i also stopped by the newer redpoint shop today. they had some good stuff. i saw some mountain hardwear crag bags that we awesome. i also saw a picture of the old red shack that was redoint back in the day. i remember eating pop tarts in there for breakfast while kubiak and craig, and will caitlin and mike smith would get coffee. those were fun times for me.
i was able to do churning today. it felt good. took a couple tries. it really brought back good memories. that was the climb i wanted to do as a kid. it was the route everyone wanted to do, if they hadnt done it already. funny how it goes now. it really felt short. but i guess im used to long extensions at little si. i wanna head up into agro gully sunday. the routes seem good and more my speed, meaning holds to pull on and less balancy tech, ie oxygen type routes.
we got a comp at inclimb tomorrow, so i will be working with the kids, should be fun. then we will be back at the smith.

where were you when............?????????

man i remember these like they were yesterday. im heading to smith tonight with bhops for a couple days of mud slab routes while the team attends the ABS season opener at the new inclimb gym in bend.
these images have been stuck in my head for decades. jim karn and dale goddard were those guys in the US who were taking it to the level. the level, I as a young climber, only dreamed of taking it to. and smith was that place where they were taking it. i used to get down there with the older guys and sleep on the ground, freezing my ass off, waiting for the sun to come up so we could get down to the crag. my dad used to pack me and my brothers up and take us down there too. i remember watts tots was my proj, for like 3 weekends. i used to leave my draws on it, on 12b, ha, i wouldnt think of it now. i used to wear lycra pants, with boxers underneath, cuz i was self conscious. good memories for sure.
this was really as sport routes were becoming more popular and the smith rocks was the place to get them. im psyched to see what i can do down there. i havent been in this kind of shape before when ive been down there. but im sure, it will be nothing like i remember. its pretty hard to pull on holds that are not there and hard to stand on feet that are not there. i have no expectations, but for sure i know a few lines i want to get on. we will see.